Tour France's 'La Champagne' - the region. Enjoy 'le champagne' - the wine.

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An hour and a half’s drive from Reims and you are in Troyes, gateway to the to the twin Aube vineyards of Bar-sur-Aube and Bar-sur-Seine. This region, that suppliers around a third of all the Pinot Noir, is packed with interesting places to visit and fascinating people to meet. Don’t miss the old crystal royal crystal glass works at Bayel, the 70,000Ha. Forêt d’Orient, with its 5,000 Ha. of lake for water-sports of all kinds, Nigloland theme park.

Or the beautiful village of Essoyes, where Renoir lived and worked among the winegrowers. Make a point of going down to charming Les Riceys – home of Rosé des Riceys – one of champagnes lesser known delights. Also make the small detour to visit Colomby-les-Deux-Eglises where General de Gaulle (bottom right) made his home.

Troyes (shown in middle picture) is where Thibaud the Great (1088-1152) held his famous Champagne Fairs, and so invented shopping! It also has numerous factory outlets that regularly attract shoppers from Paris and beyond. Here Henry V of England married Catherine of France, Pope Uban lV called his People’s Crusade, and the Knights Templar were first raised. It is home to the andouillette, a sausage made from parts of the pig not mentioned in polite society. An acquired taste, but good with old Rosé de Riceys.

Philippe recommends...   buy the guide for more info.
Troyes and the Aube:
Champ-de-Oiseaux www.champdesoiseaux.com (Deluxe, no restaurant.)
Maison-du-Rhodes (Deluxe, no restaurant, superb breakfast.)
Relais-St-Jean www.relais-st-jean.com (Modern, well-run. No restaurant, but next to...)
Restaurant Le Valentino (Good food, outside in the summer. Picture top right.)
Bistoquet (Old cinema made into a bistrôt; smart and fun.)
Forêt d’Orient:
L’Auberge-du-Lac at Mesnil-St-Père www.auberge-du-lac.fr (Small rooms, good food.)
Bar-sur-Aube:
Moulin-du-Laudion www.moulindulandoin.com (Well appointed hotel.)
La Chaumière (Good restaurant and quiet rooms.)
La Toque Baralbine (Innovative cooking.)
La Chaumière www.hostellerielachaumiere.com (Good restaurant, good rooms in separate block.)
Des Canotiers www.hoteldescanotiers.com (Comfortable rooms and decent food.)
Robert Dufour (Charming B&B.)
Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises:
Auberge-de-la-Montagne (Picturesque inn with excellent 1* restaurant.)
Les Riceys:
Hotel du Magney www.le-magny.com (Good restaurant, adequate rooms,
swimming pool.)
Aux Maisons (Well-appointed accommodation, simple restaurant with pool.)